Meat Grinder Plate and Blade Sizes: #8, #12, #22 and #32 Compatibility Explained
What the #8, #12, #22 and #32 numbers actually mean
On a meat grinder, the number is a size designation for the head: the throat opening, the auger diameter, and the plate and knife that sit at the end of it. It is a trade label, not a dimension you can read off a ruler. Larger numbers generally go with larger heads, wider augers and bigger motors, and they are the reason a plate that looks identical to your old one can still be the wrong part.
In practice the sizes sort into rough groups. #8 is usually the small-head size on lighter electric grinders and hand-crank models. #12 is the common size on mid-range home and hunter grinders, and the one most aftermarket plates and knives are made for. #22 and #32 are larger heads, usually on heavier, higher-horsepower grinders built for regular game-processing volume. Treat that as a starting point only. Brands label their own models differently, and the same number can hide small differences in plate diameter, notch position or knife drive.
The four dimensions that decide whether a plate and knife fit
The size number gets you into the right family. Four physical details decide whether a part works in your head:
- Plate outer diameter. The plate must seat inside the head with only a small gap. Too small and meat bypasses the holes. Too large and it will not seat.
- Locating notch or key. Most plates have a notch on the edge that engages a slot in the head so the plate cannot spin. A missing or misplaced notch means the plate rotates with the knife.
- Center hole or hub. This is where the plate meets the knife and the end of the auger. It must match the knife’s design.
- Knife drive and thickness. The knife must engage the auger’s drive end, whether square, flatted or pinned, and sit flush against the plate face.
Measure plate diameter, plate thickness and the center opening with calipers if you have them. Photograph the notch position. Those four details are more reliable than a product title that says “fits #12”.
Hubbed versus hubless: why plates and knives must be paired
Hubbed plates have a raised center boss. The knife locates on that boss, which keeps it centered as it spins. Hubless (flat) plates have no boss, so the knife is centered another way, usually by the auger’s end. The two designs are not interchangeable, and a hubbed knife on a hubless plate, or the reverse, will not sit flat.
If the knife does not sit flush, the cutting edges either stand off the plate and mash meat, or bind and heat up. Both give the same symptoms: smeared fat, a gray, pasty grind and a motor that works harder than it should. Buy knives and plates as a matched set for your head style. If you are replacing only one part, match it to the part you are keeping and to the manual, not to the size number.
Cross-brand fit: LEM, Weston, Cabela’s, Hobart-style and KitchenAid
Cross-brand fit is where most wrong orders happen. Several brands sell grinders in #8, #12 and larger sizes, and many aftermarket plates are described as Hobart-style or universal for a given number. That wording suggests broad compatibility but does not guarantee it. A same-number plate from another brand may fit the head but have a different notch, a different center opening or a thickness that changes how the knife loads against it.
KitchenAid stand-mixer grinder attachments are a separate case. They use their own head and plate design, so a #12 or #22 plate will not substitute, and attachment plates are sold on their own terms. When you shop, check the grinder’s model name against the replacement part’s listed compatibility, and confirm with the manual or the manufacturer if the listing is vague. A part listed as fitting your exact model is a safer buy than one listed only as fitting a number.
Hole size, plate type and what each cut is for
Once the plate fits, the hole pattern decides what comes out. Coarse plates, with larger holes, suit a first pass on venison trim, chili grind and sausage that will be ground again. Medium plates are the general-purpose choice for burger and bratwurst-style sausage. Fine plates, with small holes, are for emulsified textures, finely ground jerky meat and a second pass. Plate hole sizes are given in millimeters or fractions of an inch, so compare them in the same unit.
Game processing often means a coarse pass followed by a medium or fine pass, so a single plate rarely covers the job. A standard cutting plate has many holes, while a stuffing plate has a large opening and is used with a sausage stuffing tube so the meat is not pressured through fine holes. Kubbe attachments and stuffing tubes have their own fitment to the head or collar, so check these separately from the plate and knife.
Material, wear and when a plate or knife is worn out
Plates and knives are consumables. Stainless steel resists rust and is easier to keep clean, but it does not stay sharp as long as hardened carbon steel. Carbon steel and tinned plates cut well but rust if left wet, so dry them and wipe them with food-safe oil before storing. Many hunters keep a spare knife and plate on hand because they dull faster on sinew, silver skin and the cartilage left in deer, elk, moose or bear trim.
Signs of wear are a knife that no longer shears meat cleanly, fat that smears and clogs the holes, and a plate face with visible dishing or scoring. A slightly dull set can be lapped flat on a sharpening surface. A plate with deep grooves or a bent knife should be replaced. A mismatched or worn set also raises motor load and slows throughput measured in pounds per minute, so a grinder that was fast when new but now struggles may need new parts rather than a bigger motor.
A pre-purchase checklist for replacement plates and blades
Before ordering, confirm these in order:
- Identify your grinder’s brand, model and head size from the manual or the label, rather than guessing from the plate.
- Check whether the plate is hubbed or hubless, and note the knife style.
- Measure plate diameter, thickness and center opening, and photograph the notch position.
- Compare the listing’s compatibility claim with your exact model, not only the size number.
- Choose hole sizes for your actual grind, and buy at least a coarse and a medium or fine plate.
- Add a spare knife, and a retaining ring or collar if yours is worn or lost.
If a listing does not state diameter or style, or only says “universal”, look for one that does. Returning a plate that almost fits costs more time than checking before you order.
Related guides
FAQ
Can I use a #22 plate on a #12 grinder?
Generally no. The number reflects a larger head, so a #22 plate is larger than the head on a #12 grinder and will not seat. The reverse also fails, because a smaller plate leaves a gap that lets meat bypass the holes. Buy the plate that matches your grinder’s head size and model.
Do plates and knives from different brands interchange if the size number matches?
Sometimes, but the number alone does not guarantee it. Differences in notch position, center opening, plate thickness and hub style can stop a part from seating or make the knife sit unevenly against the plate. Check the listed compatibility against your exact model, and measure diameter and thickness if the listing is vague.
How do I know if my plate is hubbed or hubless?
Look at the center of the plate. A raised boss in the middle means a hubbed plate, and a flat face with no boss means hubless. Choose the knife that is made for the same style, because a mismatched pair will not sit flat and will smear meat.